|
|
INCIDENT REPORT |
 |
|
|
WARNING! |
| Do not approach within 100 yards of any U.S. naval vessel.
If you need to pass within 100 yards of a U.S. naval vessel in order to ensure a safe passage in accordance with the Navigation
Rules, you must contact the U.S. naval vessel or the Coast Guard escort vessel on VHF-FM channel 16. |
 |
| You must operate at minimum speed within 500 yards of any U.S. naval
vessel and proceed as directed by the Commanding Officer or the official patrol. |
|
Violations of the Naval Vessel Protection Zone are
a felony offense, punishable by up to 6 years in prison and/or up to $250,000 in fines |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Visit our links page for Boating information for kids
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Who Needs PFDs? Everyone Who Goes Boating!
Anytime anyone goes boating, there's a chance to fall overboard. A PFD (Personal Floatation Device)
is designed to keep your head above water and to help you remain in a position that permits proper breathing. An average adult
only needs artificial buoyancy of 7 to 12 pounds to remain afloat, and virtually all approved PFD's provide this amount of
floatation. Don't take chances-know the facts about your lifejacket.
When buying a PFD, always check the labels to make sure the U.S. Coast Guard approves it. It must be well designed, fit
well, and it must be in good condition to meet Coast Guard requirements.
Buy a Lifejacket You Will Wear - and Wear it!
Pick a lifejacket that fits, and fits the type of boating you will be doing. There are many that are comfortable and attractive,
which means you are much more likely to be wearing it if an emergency arises. Never alter your PFD. Give it a trial test in
shallow water. Does it hold you up so that you can breathe easily?
Help children pick a PFD with a good fit and make sure they wear it during any boating activity.
PFDs are Survival Equipment - Treat Them With Respect!
For your PFD to work, it has to be kept in good condition. So be sure to always air-dry it thoroughly before stowing it
in an accessible place on board. Check it twice a year for mildew, leaks, insecure straps, or hardened stuffing. Don't crush
the PFD with heavy weight and avoid contact with oil or grease-these cause some PFD materials to deteriorate and lose buoyancy.
Boaters Must Meet These PFD Requirements...
To meet Coast Guard boating requirements, you must have the proper type and number of PFDs aboard.
All boats regardless of length must have:
One of Types I, II, III or V for each person aboard;
Boats 16 feet and over must have one Type IV (throwable device) in addition to the requirement above.
So why Are PFDs So Important?
More than 90% of deaths in boating are from drowning. And 80% of those drowning victims were not wearing a personal floatation
device. It's important to wear a PFD! They protect against drowning and can help protect against hypothermia - because exposure
to cold water is another major killer in boating accidents. Don't take chances, wear your PFD!
Buoyancy Means You'll Float. If You Wear One!
Most adults need an extra 7 to 12 pounds of buoyancy to keep their head above water. Below is a list of minimum buoyancies
for each type of PFD:
Type I ----------------------------------- 22 lbs. Type II ---------------------------------- 15.5 lbs. Type III
--------------------------------- 15.5 lbs. Ring Buoy ------------------------------- 16.5 lbs. Boat Cushion ----------------------------
18-lbs. Hybrid inflatable ------------------------- 22 / 7.5 lbs. Special use device ----------------------- 15.5 to
22 lbs.
The five types of Lifejackets
TYPE I - Offshore Lifejacket
This PFD is designed for extended survival in rough, open water. It usually will turn an unconscious person face-up and
has 22 pounds of buoyancy. This is the best PFD to keep you afloat in remote regions where rescue may be slow coming
TYPE II - Near Shore Life Vest
This "classic" PFD comes in several sizes for adults and children and is for calm inland water where there is chance of
fast rescue. It is less bulky and less expensive than a Type I, and many turn an unconscious person face-up in the water.
TYPE III - Floatation Aid
These lifejackets are generally considered the most comfortable, with styles for different boating activities and sports.
They are for use in calm water where there is good chance of fast rescue since they will generally not turn an unconscious
person face-up. Floatation aids come in many sizes and styles.
TYPE IV - Throwable Device
These are designed to be thrown to a person in the water. Throwable devices include boat cushions, ring buoys, and horseshoe
buoys. They are not designed to be worn and must be supplemented by a wearable PFD. It is important to keep these devices
immediately available for emergencies, and they should not be used for small children, non-swimmers, or unconscious people.
TYPE V - Special Use Devise
Special use PFDs includes work vests, deck suits, and hybrids for restricted use. Hybrid vests contain some internal buoyancy
and are inflatable to provide additional flotation.
Buying a Life Vest: There are different types of life vests: Types I, II, III and IV. Type I is for boating in severe
conditions where rescue may be delayed. Type LV is a boat cushion or rescue ring. It does not replace a wearable PFD and should
not be used by children. The types most helpful for near-shore recreational boating are: · Type Il—good for calm,
inland water where there is a good chance of fast rescue. Smaller sizes often have high collars to help keep a child’s
face out of the water. · Type III — provides similar flotation to Type IL and offers the most comfort and freedom
of movement. It comes in a variety of styles and sizes, from small child through adult. It is also best used in calm water
where there’s a good chance of fast rescue. · Buy your child a PFD — there may not be one that fits to rent
or borrow.
When Buying a Life Vest Check for · Coast Guard approved label. · A snug fit. Check weight and size on the label
and try the PFD on your child. Pick up your child by the shoulders of the PFD; the child’s chin and ears won’t
slip through a proper fit. · Head support for younger children. A well-designed PFD will support the child’s head
when the child is in the water. · A strap between the legs for younger children. This is a good feature because it helps
prevent the vest from coming off. · Comfort and appearance. This is especially important for teens, which are less
likely to wear a PFD.
How Do You Use a Life Vest? · Every spring, check the life vest for fit as well as wear and tear. Throw it away if
you find air leakage, mildew, rot or rust. · If a child panics in the water and thrashes about, he may turn onto his face,
even though a PFD with a collar is designed to keep him on his back with face out of the water. Have your child practice wearing
a life vest in the water — this will help prevent panic and rolling over. · Never alter a PFD. It could lose its
effectiveness. · Wear your own life vest to set an example, and to help your child if an emergency occurs. · Never
use toys like plastic rings or water wings in place of a PFD.
Remember PFDs only work when they are worn, and they do not take the place of supervision!
Why Should Your Child Wear a Life Vest? Drowning is often silent, takes as little as five minutes and usually happens
when an adult is nearby. No one can watch a child every second. Here are guidelines for wearing PFDs: · Children between
birth and five years: on beaches, docks and in boats. · Children between the ages of 6-11: on docks, boats, inner tubes
and river banks. · Teens and adults: on boats or inner tubes.
BUI is just as deadly as drinking and driving! Did you know:
- A boat operator is likely to become impaired more quickly than a driver, drink for drink?
- The penalties for BUI can include large fines, revocation of operator privileges and serious jail terms?
- The use of alcohol is involved in about a third of all recreational boating fatalities?
Every boater needs to understand the risks of boating under the influence of alcohol or drugs (BUI). It
is illegal to operate a boat while under the influence of alcohol or drugs in every state. The Coast Guard also enforces a
federal law that prohibits BUI. This law pertains to ALL boats (from canoes and rowboats to the largest ships) – and
includes foreign vessels that operate in U.S. waters, as well as U.S. vessels on the high seas.
********************************************************************
Info on Using Locks
When traversing connected navigational areas with considerable difference in water levels you may encounter locks. These are
used to move boats up or down from one level to another.
Locks operate on a simple premise. You drive your boat into a chamber with gates at each
end. To raise the boat, water is let into the chamber until it is the level of the water to be entered. When the water reaches
that level the gates on the new elevation side are opened and you drive out.
To go to a lower level, you enter the chamber and the gates are closed and water is let out
until you are even with the lower level. The gates on that side are opened and again you drive away.
The lockmasters are responsible for the safety of vessels going through the locks. Their
instructions should be followed precisely. You normally will call the locks on your VHF radio and make arrangements to enter
the lock. (The VHF channel changes in different parts of the country but 13 is a good place to start if you do not already
know the channel or it is not indicated on a sign at the entrance to the lock.)

You may, however, give two long and two short blasts from your horn and follow the light
signals which are displayed at each entrance to the lock. Generally, they work similarly to a traffic light. A red light means
stop, you cannot enter the lock and you must stay clear of any traffic about to exit the lock. A yellow light sometimes displayed
means the lock is preparing for your entrance but still stay cautiously clear. A green light means the boat may enter the
lock with caution and follow the instructions of the lockmaster. (Sound and light signals may be different in different parts
of the country. Investigate beforehand.)
Prior to entering the lock you should have fenders rigged on both sides of the vessel. You should have crew in PFDs ready
to handle lines and loop, not tie, them to the posts, bollards or lock wall ladder rungs on the side of the lock the lockmaster
has indicated. Keep hands and feet clear of the boat and wall. Use a boat hook or paddle to fend off if necessary. Your crew
handling the lines will have to adjust them as the water level rises or falls. Your lines should be at least twice the depth
of the lock. Once secure in the lock shut off your engine.
As soon as the water in the lock reaches the proper level, the gates are open and the lockmaster
has indicated that you should do so, you should cast off lines and exit with caution.
*******************************************************************
Visual Buoyage Guide

|
Operating Procedures |
|
Aids to Navigation
Aids to Navigation are placed along coasts
and navigable waters as guides to mark safe water and to assist mariners in determining their position in relation to land
and hidden dangers. Each aid to navigation is used to provide specific information.
Several aids to navigation are
usually used together to form a local aid to navigation system that helps the mariner follow natural and improved channels.
Such aids to navigation also provide a continuous system of charted marks for coastal piloting. Individual aids to navigation
are used to mark landfall from seaward, and to mark isolated dangers.
Lateral markers are buoys or beacons that indicate
the port and starboard sides of a route to be followed. Virtually all U.S. lateral marks follow the traditional 3R rule of
"red, right, returning". This means, when returning from sea, keep red marks on the righthand (starboard) side of the vessel.
Bear in mind, however, that travel on the ICW is considered to be "returning from sea" when traveling in a clockwise direction
around the U.S.
| Mariners must NOT rely on buoys alone for determining their position. Storms and
wave action can cause buoys to move. |
Lateral Aids
Lateral aids marking the sides of channels as seen when entering from seaward.
| Do not tie up to Aids to Navigation, it is dangerous and illegal. |
Information and Regulatory Markers
 |
| | |
|
 |
|
Best of Log
,.
|
 |
|
|
 |
| | |
|
Basic anchoring guidelines:
- Anchors are designed for specific bottom characteristics. Make sure that you buy an anchor designed for the
type of bottom primarily encountered in your boating area. Even with a small boat, five or six feet of coated chain is desirable.
Shackle the chain to the anchor. Put a thimble on the end of the anchor line and shackle that to the other end of the chain.
Chose your anchor line carefully. A line that is too heavy will actually cause problems because you’ll loose the "elasticity"
that absorbs the shock and keeps the anchor well set.
- Pick your anchorage carefully. If there are other boats nearby, you will need to "guess" at their potential
swing. A boat on a mooring will have very little swing but a Yacht at anchor may have considerable "scope" out and may swing
widely. A shallow draft boat will be more affected, usually, by the wind whereas a deep draft boat will be more affected by
the current.
- Put your bow into the wind or current (whichever is having the greatest affect on your boat, power up slowly
to or just beyond where you want your anchor to lie and check your forward motion with your reverse gear. Double check to
ensure that the bitter end of your anchor line is attached to something sturdy on the boat. Most experienced boaters have
watched at least one anchor with a few hundred feet on line disappear over the bow because they forgot to secure the end.
- Don’t throw the anchor – it will probably get tangled. Release it by holding on to the chain
or line, making sure that the chain and line are free, and dropping the anchor off the bow. If your anchor line was properly
coiled, it will "pay-out" smoothly.
- Once you see slack in the line, feed out the proper amount of scope as the boat drifts back. Hopefully, you’ve
got your anchor line marked at 25’ increments. Average "recommended" scope is somewhere around 7 to 1 or 8 to 1 –
that means that if you are in 20 feet of water you will want to pay-out between 140’ and 160’ of line. You also
want to take into consideration the distance between the water line and the bow cleat and also any depth increase because
of tides. If the tide may come in another 4 feet and your bow cleat is 3 feet above the water, you are, effectively, in 27
feet of water and would need to pay out around 200’ of line. Up to 15 to 1 scope may be necessary in strong winds or
currents.
- Once the scope is out, secure the line (cleat and chock) and "back down" on the anchor keeping your bow into
the wind/current. Idle speed is usually sufficient to make the anchor "bite" into the bottom and "set."
- Put the engine in neutral and get your "bearings." Find two points on each beam that form a natural "range"
or line and a third either ahead or astern from which you may be able to judge distance. They can be other anchored boats,
rocks, buoys or points on land. Sit there for a few minutes to make sure that none of the angles or distances to these points
change. Any change would indicate that you are dragging and need to reset your anchor or pay out more scope – or both.
- Now do whatever had planned to do when you decided to anchor and have fun doing it.
While our nation's inland and coastal waterways play host
to hundreds of recreational boats, at the same time they also carry barges, tugboats, towboats, and large ships loaded with
tons of cargo.
Being aware of the constraints under which these commercial vessels operate can arm recreational
boaters with the best protection against danger and could save your life!
This information is intended only as a supplement to other sources of information on seamanship
and rules of the road. It assumes that you, the boat operator, know the rules and appropriate signals. If you don't, contact
the United States Coast Guard concerning boating safety training.
 |
Commercial vessels, including towboats and tugboats, operate 365 days a year,
24 hours a day.
The speed of a ship, towboat, or tugboat can be deception. A tow can travel
one mile in seven minutes-a ship even faster-and it generally takes 3/4 to 1 1/2 to stop. For example, if a water skier falls
a thousand feet in front of a moving tug or tow, the skier has less than one minute to get out of the way.
|
|
Large vessels must maintain speed to steer, and they must stay in the channel-
it's the only place deep enough for them to operate. Many channels are unmarked. On some waterways, the channel extends bank
to bank, so expect vessel traffic on any portion of the waterway.
|
|
A pilot's "blind spot" can extend for hundreds of feet in front of deep-draft
ships, tugboats and towboats pushing barges.

|
In narrow canals a tug's or tow's powerful engines can cause a smaller vessel to be pulled toward the tow when passing alongside. |
"Wheel Wash" is a strong underwater current caused by towboat or ship engines
that can result in severe turbulence hundreds of yards behind a large vessel. |
A tug without barges in front could be towing a log raft, barge, or other objects on a long submerged line behind it, which lie low in the water and are difficult
to see. Never pass closely behind a tugboat.

|
Sailboating on inland rivers can be hazardous, and sailboaters and wind surfers should know that a tow or tug can "steal your wind"- so you won't have the same
wind you started with when executing a sailing maneuver near a commercial vessel. |
Operating in adverse weather or low visibility can prove extremely dangerous. Why take a chance? |
Ships, towboats and tugboats use VHF radio channels 13 and 16. If you are unsure of your situation, or their intentions, feel free to contact them. Remember,
you are sharing the waterways with vessels operated by highly trained and conscientious professionals. If you have a true
emergency, or need information, they can and will help if properly contacted. |
Avoid cargo loading docks and "parked" or moored vessels in fleeting areas.
There are many loading area, or "terminals", along the nation's inland and coastal
waterways. Stay clear! |
Wear a life jacket at all times. Over
82 percent of those killed in boating accidents in recent years were not wearing life jackets. |
Don't operate a boat while drinking alcohol or using drugs. It is estimated that more than half of all recreational boating fatalities are related to alcohol.
It's proven that the marine environment compounds the effects of alcohol.  |
Watch for ship, tug or towboat lighting at night- don't rely on trying to hear a vessel approaching. Pay attention to the sidelights of tugs and tows, rather than
the masthead lights (mast lights are not displayed by pusher towboats on the Western rivers, making it even more critical
to keep a sharp lookout). If you see both sidelights (red and green), you're dead ahead, and in the path of danger. |
Use safe anchorages. Coast Guard
navigation aids, like buoys, mark channels for shipping, and it is illegal and dangerous to tie up to them. Each year commercial
vessels ram and sink boats anchored in navigation channels or tied to buoys.

|
| |
MAN OVERBOARD
If you can see the person in the water clearly, a simple 180 degree turn is the quickest.
If you lose sight of the casualty, due to poor visibility, or heavy weather and sea state, the 'Williamson turn' is a good
way to get on to a reciprocal course which will take you back down your track: Put your helm hard over to the starboard
and add 60 degrees to your course. When the |
 |
|
compass is reading course + 180 degrees, steer a reciprocal course and the casualty should be ahead
of you.
In heavy weather the reciprocal course may bring the sea astern, in which case a short approach head to sea may be more appropriate
once the turn has been completed.
Do not waste time while the boat is turning to approach the person in the water - prepare for the recovery as it is too late
when they are alongside. - Which side will you approach? - Have a heaving line ready - Wear a lifejacket and lifeline;
if you don't, you may get pulled on top of the person in the water
The initial approach to the person in the water will vary depending on weather/sea conditions and the type of boat. Let the
weather help rather than hinder - stop unwind and drift down.
If you are concerned about drifting onto the person in the water, bring your stern into the wind. If you're not confident
with your boat handling skills, or if it looks likely that the boat could come down on top of the person in the water, throw
them the heaving line and pull them alongside to a safe place for recovery.
Ensure the propeller is not turning when you are alongside the person in the water. |
|